Is Senja as beautiful as Lofoten?
It's something I've heard many times: "Don't go to Lofoten, go to Senja instead! It's just as beautiful but with fewer tourists." I have now spent two days on Senja and with two previous trips to Lofoten in my luggage I have a good basis for comparing these two Norwegian beauties. But before I dive into what I think of Senja compared to Lofoten, let me first tell you about my day here at Senja!
The day started with rain. I awoke to the sound of rain pattering against the RV roof and saw dark, dramatic clouds hanging over the landscape. It has been gray and wet most of the day with rain that has come and gone.
My first stop was Ersfjordstranda, which is a beautiful, golden sandy beach surrounded by mighty mountains. Despite the rain, the place was nice and I imagine it's more impressive on a sunny day.
After Ersfjordstranda, I continued to Tungeneset where I spent over an hour on the rocks. Wandering around here listening to the waves of the sea crashing against the rocks gave a sense of stillness and raw power at the same time.
Next, I took a trip to Bergsbotn, where a cool viewing platform offers a fantastic view of the landscape.
I then continued on narrow and curvy roads and admired the landscape.
My last excursion for the day went to Hamn i Senja where I heard about a lighthouse you could hike to. The description of the trail promised a relatively easy hike but the reality was a little different. I had to climb slippery rocks and climb over rickety ladders which definitely added to the excitement. However, the view at the lighthouse was nothing short of amazing. On the way back I was surprised by a heavy rain and also got lost due to the unclear trail markings. So there I stood, soaking wet and somewhat frustrated, before I finally managed to find my way back to the RV where I could dry off.
Now I have made it to a newly built campsite in the village of Torsken, which is only ten minutes from Gryllefjord, where the ferry to Andenes goes. Maybe not such a charming campsite with a big asphalted plan but everything is new and very functional and I am surrounded by mountains and sea. I'm going down early tomorrow morning and hope to get a seat on the ferry which is both small and popular. With only two departures a day, one at 11am and one at 7pm, we'll see if I'm lucky. Incidentally, the last trips for the season leave in a week.
But what do I think of Senja now that I've been here? It is true that there are fewer people here compared to Lofoten, which is definitely an advantage if you are looking for peace. But is it as beautiful? For me, no. Senja is beautiful, no doubt, but Lofoten has something magical about it that I don't really feel here. The fantastic beaches, the sharp mountain peaks and the special atmosphere of Lofoten mean that the place still has a special place in my heart. So if you have the opportunity, visit both - but don't skip Lofoten for Senja's sake.
Tomorrow I'm crossing my fingers to get a place on the ferry and then continue on towards my beloved Lofoten!
